Athol Yates and Nicholas Zvegintzov · 2001 · overland
A guide to the Baikal-Amur Mainline, the second Trans-Siberian: four thousand three hundred kilometres from Tayshet to the Pacific, begun with camp labour in the thirties, abandoned, restarted as a Komsomol project in 1974, and finished in 1991 into a country that no longer existed.
- 1Tayshet
The western end, where the BAM leaves the Trans-Siberian - and where the first surveys were run in the thirties, using labour from the camps that gave the line its original workforce.
- 2Bratsk
The dam and the reservoir, and a town built for the hydroelectric scheme - the BAM crosses the Angara here on a bridge carrying the railway above the road.
- 3Ust-Kut
Lena station, and the river port that supplies everything north - the point at which the line stops following anything already there and starts crossing country with no roads in it.
- 4Severobaykalsk
The northern tip of Baikal, and the town Leningrad architects built for the construction crews - and then the Severomuysky tunnel east of it, fifteen kilometres long and twenty-six years in the digging.
- 5Novy Uoyan
Permafrost country, where the ground thaws under the ballast every summer and the track has to be relaid - the reason the BAM cost what it did and still does.
- 6Taksimo
The Vitim valley and the end of the electrified section - diesel from here east, and the settlements getting smaller and further apart.
- 7Tynda
The capital of the BAM, built by Muscovites in the seventies and laid out like a piece of the capital dropped in the taiga - and the junction with the line south to the Trans-Siberian.
- 8Fevralsk
The Selemdzha crossing, and the long empty middle of the eastern section - Komsomol volunteer brigades were assigned whole towns to build out here, and some of the towns are still half-finished.
- 9Komsomolsk-na-Amure
The city on the Amur founded in 1932 by young volunteers and, less publicly, by prisoners - shipyards, aircraft plants, and the BAM's largest settlement by a wide margin.
- 10Sovetskaya Gavan
The Pacific, and the end of the line - four thousand three hundred kilometres from Tayshet, and the reason the whole thing was built: a route to the ocean that runs nowhere near the Chinese border.