Ranulph Fiennes · 1983 · polar
Ranulph Fiennes's account of the Transglobe Expedition, 1979 to 1982 - the first and still the only circumnavigation of the Earth on its polar axis by surface travel alone. Thirty-five thousand miles, both poles, two Antarctic and Arctic winters, and ninety-nine days adrift on a breaking ice floe at the end of it.
- 1Greenwich
2 September 1979, and the Prince of Wales sees them off from the Thames - a plan to go round the world on its polar axis by surface travel only, which nobody had done and nobody has done since.
- 2Barcelona
South through France by Land Rover to the Mediterranean - the easy part, and the last stretch for three years on which anything goes according to schedule.
- 3Algiers
Across to Africa and the start of the Sahara crossing - the expedition having spent seven years raising money and permissions from fifty-odd governments before a wheel turned.
- 4Tamanrasset
The Hoggar mountains in the deep desert, and then south through Niger and Mali - dunes, breakdowns, and the sort of border officials who had never seen the paperwork before.
- 5Abidjan
The Ivory Coast and the Atlantic, and the Benjamin Bowring waiting - a converted ice-strengthened ship crewed largely by volunteers, which is how the whole expedition was staffed.
- 6Ryvingen
Antarctica, and a hut built into the ice at seventy-two south for the winter - eight months of darkness in a cardboard-and-timber box, waiting for a season good enough to cross the continent.
- 7The South Pole
15 December 1980, reached on open snowmobiles - two thousand two hundred miles across the continent in sixty-seven days, on machines designed for Scandinavian farm tracks.
- 8Scott Base
Down the Scott Glacier to the Ross Ice Shelf and out - the first crossing of Antarctica by that route, and the ship picking them up at the edge of the sea ice.
- 9Auckland
New Zealand, and north across the Pacific - the halfway point, three years in, with the harder half still ahead.
- 10Los Angeles
North America, and up the west coast to the Yukon - then down the river by open boat, and into the Northwest Passage in a twelve-foot inflatable.
- 11Tuktoyaktuk
The Beaufort Sea coast, and three thousand miles of the Passage done in an open boat in a single season - which had not been managed before and depended entirely on the ice being kind that summer.
- 12Alert
Ellesmere Island, the northernmost settlement on earth, and a second winter - a hut, the dark, and the wait for the ice to be firm enough and the light long enough.
- 13The North Pole
11 April 1982, on foot and by skidoo across moving pack ice - the first people to reach both poles by surface travel, with a year and a half of the journey still to survive.
- 14Spitsbergen
And then the worst part: the floe they were on breaking up, and ninety-nine days adrift on a shrinking raft of ice, drifting south until the ship could reach them.
- 15Greenwich
29 August 1982, back up the Thames after thirty-five thousand miles and three years - and no one has repeated it, because the ice they crossed in the Passage is now open water and the floes will not bear it.